I recently traveled on the Amtrak Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago. If you’ve never been on this train, you’ve probably heard some amazing things. And if you have been on this train, you’ve probably still heard some amazing things… but now you know better!
I had high expectations before I hopped aboard —scenic views, comfortable accommodation, a peaceful ride, etc. But the reality was quite different. While there were certainly highlights, there were also quite a few surprises that I definitely wasn’t prepared for.
I can’t go back in time and make my journey better. But I can share with you the things I wish I’d known before I climbed aboard to make your journey better! So here are the highs and lows of my trip, along with tips to help you make the most of your time on board.
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Accommodation Options
There are six different types of accommodation options on the Amtrak Empire Builder:
- Roomette: A tiny room for two with two seats that transform into a bunk bed — this is the option I chose.
- Bedroom: Double the size of a roomette with a bunk bed for two and a private bathroom.
- Bedroom Suite: Double the size of a bedroom and can sleep up to four people, plus a private bathroom.
- Family Bedroom: Essentially the same as the bedroom suite, but without a private bathroom.
- Accessible Bedroom: Large rooms on the entry level of the train with space for a wheelchair. Some have private bathrooms and some don’t.
The Best Bits
Let’s start with the highlights! These are the best things about traveling on the Amtrak Empire Builder. I honestly tried to come up with some more, but this was all I could think of!
1. The food was incredible
When you choose one of the accommodation options, you get three meals per day included in the price of your ticket. And the food is amazing!
You can opt for restaurant-quality meals like thick and fluffy French toast for breakfast, a grilled patty melt for lunch, and a full three-course meal for dinner. All of this plus one free alcoholic drink at dinner and unlimited soft drinks during every meal!
Hot food is also available if you’re traveling in coach class — but you have to pay extra.
2. There are showers
When you’re spending 48 hours on a train, showers are a massive bonus! They’re tiny and the water pressure is terrible. But the water is warm, there are plenty of clean towels available, and they’re a lot better than nothing.
3. You can disembark when the train stops
The train can get pretty cramped, but there are plenty of opportunities to get out and stretch your legs. Whenever the train stops, you’re free to disembark for a short stroll. The stops vary from just a couple of minutes to around 15 minutes, so you can get some decent breaks. It’s a great way to get some fresh air, since the windows on the train don’t open.
The Worst Bits and How to Make Them Better
Now for the aspects of riding the Amtrak Empire Builder that aren’t so great. Please don’t let my experience put you off. To help you out, I’ve listed a handy fix next to every problem I came across.
1. No WiFi or data
Problem: There’s no WiFi on board and no phone signal for the first 36 hours or so when you’re traveling from Seattle to Chicago. This can make it impossible if you need to work while you’re on the train. But if you’re traveling for fun, you can get around it with a little bit of planning.
Fix: Don’t waste your money on a prepaid SIM card for data like I did! Instead, download all the books and TV you want to watch and plan for an analog trip instead.
2. It’s a tight fit
Problem: The beds in the roomettes and bedrooms are bunk beds and the upper bunk is incredibly claustrophobic. Unless you do a lot of yoga, it can also be tricky to climb into it every night.
Fix: You can’t really solve this problem. If you’re traveling with a partner, consider splitting the time in the top bunk so neither of you suffers too much. If you’re traveling alone, stick to the bottom bunk.
3. No private bathroom
Problem: There’s no private bathroom in the roomettes. The shared bathrooms are okay at the beginning, but they get dirty and messy very quickly. They could also be quite far away from you, depending on where your roomette is located.
Fix: Avoid the roomettes and choose a bedroom or a bedroom suite instead. They all come with private bathrooms.
4. Noisy rattling
Problem: There’s a lot of loose metal in the roomettes and bedrooms that rattles when the train moves. Depending on how sensitive you are to noise, this could be mildly irritating or so disturbing that you can’t sleep.
Fix: Take some masking tape with you to tape loose bits down so you can sleep at night.
5. Lack of temperature control
Problem: The roomettes and bedrooms are either boiling hot or icy cold depending on the season. There’s no individual air-con or heating system, so you’re stuck with the temperature the train is on.
Fix: Pack super warm clothes in the winter and a small USB fan for the summer.
6. Single wall socket
Problem: There’s only one socket per roomette or bedroom. It’s also in an awkward position, about shoulder height of someone sitting on one of the chairs.
Fix: If you’re going to need to plug more than one thing in at a time, pack a power strip. The power strip can also make it more comfortable for the person sitting on the socket side.
7. Thin curtains
Problem: The curtains on the train are incredibly thin and let a lot of light through. This can make sleeping difficult, especially if you want to sleep in.
Fix: If you like to sleep in total darkness, bring a sleeping mask. If you bring masking tape, you can also use it to stick the curtains to the windows so the sun doesn’t shine through the sides.
8. Call for breakfast
Problem: There’s a loud wake-up call piped into every room at 6.30 am announcing breakfast. Then again at 7.30 am, again at 8.30 am, and again at 9.30 am. It’s a great way to make sure you don’t miss breakfast, but it’s an awful way to sleep in!
Fix: If you don’t want to be up at the crack of dawn, take earplugs. They won’t block the wake-up call out completely, but they’ll help.
9. Tiny roomettes
Problem: I stayed in a roomette and they are shockingly small. There isn’t enough room for the small bag that you place under your seat on a plane. I had planned to play games on my laptop in the roomette but there wasn’t even enough room for that!
Fix 1: Check any luggage that you won’t need during your journey when you arrive at the station. Keep a small bag with a change of clothes, toiletries, etc with you and store it on the rack in the corridor. Only keep essentials like your phone, a book, etc, with you in a small bag in your roomette.
Fix 2: Head into the observation lounge and grab a large table where you can enjoy the views while you play games, work, or just relax. Even if you have to share a table with someone, you’ll still have loads more room than you would have if you had stayed in your roomette!
10. Unusual locks
Problem: You can lock the doors of your roomette or bedroom on the inside, but not the outside. So you can sleep soundly at night, knowing no one is coming into your room. But when you’re not there, anyone could walk in — in theory.
Fix: Keep all your valuables with you when you leave your room or lock them inside your case. Your things will probably be safe in your room while you’re gone — it just feels a little odd leaving all your stuff unattended.
11. You’re going to be late
Problem: The timekeeping is awful. On my journey, we left Seattle on time, but that was the only instance we were on time. We arrived late to every following station and were hours late by the time we got to Chicago.
Fix: Don’t plan anything for the day you get off the train — you’ll probably be late. Just accept it’s something that it likely to happen.
Extra tips to have a great time
Riding the Amtrak Empire Builder doesn’t have to be all doom and gloom! Here are some extra tips to help you have a comfortable journey.
1. Book as early as you can
You’ll save yourself a small fortune by booking your ticket as soon as you know you want to travel. Tickets usually increase in price the closer you get to the travel date. You can save literally $100s by booking a couple of months early.
2. Roomettes aren’t always better
If you’re stuck between a roomette and a coach class seat, opt for the coach class seat — unless there’s not much of a price difference between the two. The roomettes are tiny and can cost $1,500+. They’re just not worth it. I honestly thought that coach class was comfier!
3. Prioritize comfort
Wear super comfy clothing and shoes. You’re going to be sitting down in a confined space for hours — possibly up to 48 hours. This is not the time to look glamorous!
4. Dining hack
The dining room has communal seating only. Unless you’re traveling as a group of four, you’ll definitely be sitting with strangers. I’m an introvert and hated this idea so much that I actually skipped a couple of meals.
When the steward comes round to collect your order, you can ask them to deliver your food to your room instead. It’s a little cramped, but if you don’t want to make friends on the train, it’s the better option.
5. BYO drinks
If you’re staying in a roomette or bedroom, you get one free alcoholic drink per person with each evening meal. If you want to take the edge off the trip and don’t want to pay the train’s prices, you’re free to bring as much alcohol on board as you like. The only catch is that you’re only meant to consume it in your room.
6. Don’t wander off
Stay close to the train if you do decide to get off for a break during one of the stops. The train has a schedule to keep (even though it’s usually late!) and you’ll get left behind if you dawdle too much.
7. Snack car
There’s a snack car in the lower part of the train, under the observation lounge, that anyone can use. It’s only open for a few hours after breakfast, but you can grab all sorts of candies, snacks, sandwiches, and drinks.
Final thoughts on the Amtrak Empire Builder
Traveling on the Amtrak Empire Builder is definitely an experience — one that’s filled with both highs and lows. While the beautiful views and excellent food stand out, there are plenty of small inconveniences that can easily catch you off guard if you’re not prepared.
Whether you’re taking the train for the adventure, the scenery, or just to get from point A to point B, I hope these tips help you have a smoother and more comfortable journey. I wish I’d known them before I climbed aboard, but at least now you’re ready to make the most of your Amtrak Empire Builder experience!
